JS Blak Box

The JS Blak Box isn’t just another board from JS Industries, it’s the board. From coast to coast, the Blak Box has been getting rave reviews. It seems the ideal is to ride about 3 inches shorter than your standard shortboard and with a slightly larger fin setup than normal. In the chest high range, the board comes alive, even on a soft weak summer wave.

Volume. There’s a lot of volume built into the Blak Box boards and that helps you ride them shorter than you would a normal shortboard. It’s really beefy in the chest area which helps a lot when paddling into mushy surf and helps make it around sections. The tail reminds me of the classic Tom Curren Huntington Beach board  tails – wide and thick with a sharp rail right on top of the fins. Enough meat to get you through the flat and enough edge to bury that rail in the lip.

Rocker. Pretty flat rocker, but not super flat. In gutless thigh high surf, this isn’t going to be the magic board. For the really small stuff, you would probably like a Nitro or a Lost RNF better. The Blak Box is more of a performance rocker than pure dribble rider, but it’s fast. Low pull in the tail is another classic design but with a much deeper modern concave to give it a lot of drive, but still lose in the juice.

Width. A 5’11″ is 19.75″ wide and that’s pretty wide for a small board, but that also makes it really stable and adds volume. It’s really easy to paddle for the size and is still easy to turn.

What size? Well, Occy rides a 6’0 and weighs around 185lbs. Parko rides a 5’8 and weighs 175lbs. Jordy rides a 6’1 and weighs 190lbs. A lot depends on where and when you’re going to surf your Blak Box and if you’re going to be wearing a wetsuit and how good the waves are.

Overall. It’s a really great board, but not for super small surf. If you’re looking for something that is fun in the thigh to waist range, there are better boards, but if you’re looking for waist to head+ high, the JS Blak Box is the one. If you’re looking for a shortboard to surf some of that summer windchop or south swell, the JS Blak Box will make you really happy and you won’t regret riding one.

Where to get the Blak Box. Your local shop is the easiest, but you can find a Blak Box online with free shipping for around $660 which comes out about the same as in the shop once you add taxes. The Future fin models are pretty hard to come by, so if you see one, you might want to go ahead and grab it.

Surfboard Repair 101

You did it, you broke it didn’t you? You got a ding in your board and now, you need to fix it. So, you’re asking yourself, how do I repair a surfboard – my board!

If you have sustained a major ding, like a board broken into two pieces, delaminating or peeling larger than the size of a CD, take it to a professional

Before you try to fix anything on your surfboard, you need to know what kind of board you have. Not a Channel Islands, Lost or JS, but what manufacturing materials. What is your board made of? Is it polyester (PU) or epoxy? If you don’t know, find out. Using the wrong materials to fix your surfboard can turn it into a puddle of sticky goo and that’s no fun at all. Use the right materials and you’ll avoid potentially ruining your surfboard.

Do your repairs in the late afternoon. Surfboards expand and contract with the temperature. The primary ingredient in a surfboard is air. Per volume at sea level, your surfboard is mostly just air. Air expands and contracts quickly and so does your surfboard. If it expands enough, it rips the glass from the deck and causes delamination. Many newer boards have plugs just for gas expansion. For this reason, you should do your repair in the evening hours. The air inside won’t be expanding and pop out your repair.

Emergency Repairs: I know you’re not always going to wait to get your ding fixed. The waves are all time and it’s just a small ding. I know, I’ve been there and done that. Here are a few things to help minimize damage since you can’t get your board repaired right away.

• DO NOT use duct tape. Duct tape is porous and leaves a sticky-filmy residue on the surfboard. It’s hard to clean and it’s going to let in water anyway.
• DO NOT use wax. I know, it seems like cramming a piece of wax into the hole will help, but it won’t and it’s going to make future repairs more difficult and less likely to adhere. I’ve used wax before myself, I know how tempting it can be. You’re going to have to cut out a larger piece of foam when you repair it if you used wax. Resin doesn’t adhere to wax.
• DO NOT use super glue. This is going to really destroy the foam on an EPS and probably doesn’t do much good for a polyester board either. I’ve used wax, but thankfully, I saw what super glue does and have never been tempted.
• DO USE epoxy puddy. For epoxy boards. It’s a two part epoxy product (usually green with a white core) and it’s inexpensive. Mix it, form it, and shove it into the ding. It dries strong, fast(ish) and water tight. Put a piece of this into your ding and cover it with a sticker and you have the best temporary repair there is.
• DO USE stickers. Yes, those plastic surf stickers you have all around your car, room and office are actually pretty good for temporary repairs. A lot of boardshorts and other surf gear come with a little pack of sticker designed for ding covering. They really work and keep the water out, if you got a good seal. Get a really good seal and you can wait a few days for the real repair.

Epoxy board need epoxy repairs. The resins, catalysts and thinners used must be epoxy friendly. Epoxy surfboards are made with styrene foams, the same type of foam so popular with coffee cups and cheap coolers. If you put a Polyester or Vinyl ester product on a styrene product, it melts. It may be a fast reaction and it may be a slow reaction. Don’t “test” a chemical and expect it to be OK, because you’re not seeing a reaction. Some of the reactions are slow, but infinite. Be very careful what you use on your epoxy surfboard. If you’re not sure, don’t use it. Epoxy putty, sometimes called “ding stick”, works very well for filling small holes and cracks in your board. It’s also very inexpensive, easy to work with and forms a good bond with your board, if you prepare the surface properly. You can keep a tube in your vehicle for a long time and it should be good to go when you need it. I have one in my board bag. For clear finishes, you will need an epoxy resin. You can order these online or through your local surf shop. Most shops don’t carry the epoxy liquid resins, but as more and more boards are epoxy, this may change. Use the same cloth as PU board repair.

Polyester board repair is nice, because there are several methods and some are fast and easy. You can also use the same resins and catalysts that you will find at a boating and marine store, but be warned, these resins usually dry yellowish or with a tinge of blue. Using resin specifically made for surfboards will result in a clearer finish and a more professional looking repair. You can buy surfboard resin at your local surf shop or at a few dealers online. A quart should last you a long, long time. Fiberglass cloth and catalysts can be purchased in the same location. Sun Cure or Suncure is a really ‘neat’ product for surfboard repairs and serves a good need.

SunCure warning: The catalyst is solar radiation, so there’s no mixing needed. However, Suncure suffer’s in that it has to be used in sunlight and direct sunlight will cause your board to warm, expand and potentially compromise the repair.

Preparation for Repair: The Golden Rules

Follow the directions
Read the directions of the repair material you are using. Then, read them again. You’re going to be working with some powerful chemicals. Polyester surfboard repair chemicals can be very dangerous, explosive and flammable. Treat them with extreme caution and don’t ever leave them in direct sunlight. Polyester catalyst, in particular, is the nastiest of the chemicals you’re going to be using. It’s sold in small one ounce containers, which for some reason, are shaped like a Visine bottle. You do not want that stuff in your eye.

Remember: Once you start, don’t stop
Do not walk away from your resins. This is rule 1. You’ll mix the resins, have everything done and it’s looking like nothing is really happening. Don’t walk away! Once the reactions start to occur and the resins become workable, the reactions can occur VERY quickly and remember, these are one way reactions. Once that resin hardens, the only way to remove it is sanding. Your patience will be tested. Generally, the warmer it is, the faster the reaction. Follow the

Dry the surfboard.
I don’t just mean take a towel and dry it off, I mean let the board drain. Before making a permanent repair, you want to make sure all the moisture is out of the board. Hang the board so the ding is the lowest spot on the board and let gravity do its thing. The water will drain out, but it can take a long time. If you’re in a very humid environment, your board can actually absorb moisture from the air, so do you repairs and prep in as dry an area as possible. There are a few methods to speed up the process such as vacuum bagging. Vacuum bagging creates a vacuum in the board and helps pull out the water. I’ve never used this method, but I hear it works miracles and can also be used in advanced repair techniques.

Clean the wound.
Your doctor wouldn’t stitch you up without cleaning out the wound and the same is true for surfboard repair. Remove all loose debris and materials. If you’ve crushed a rail, cut away the area that was crushed including the inside “good foam”. You want your repair to adhere to a good surface and crushed foam is not a good surface. It’s hard to take a knife and cut away at your already damaged board, but repairs built on the proper foundation will last.

Assemble the materials and safety equipment
Get the proper resins, catalysts, fiberglass cloth, mixing cups, masking tape, scissors, utility knife, saw, disposable brushes and whatever else you may need. I know a lot of people want to wear glove and they’re probably needed, but get the wrong gloves, for the resin you’re using, and you can melt the gloves to your skin – ouch. Ask which kind of glove you need for the type of materials you’re using. Safety glasses are mandatory. You’re going to have little pieces of shattered fiberglass and some really nasty sticky chemicals once you begin working with the resins and catalyst. Safety glasses are not something you should skip. Get a mask.

Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (MEKP) is some nasty stuff. Yes, I did mention this earlier and it’s worth revisiting the subject. That picture on the side that shows someone’s finger being dissolved, that could be your lungs. It’s also explosive. Highly explosive. In its undiluted state, if you dropped it, it could potentially explode. Thankfully, the MEKP you’re likely to see is diluted and much more stable. However, it’s still a very volatile and dangerous chemical. Use per directions!

Prepare your materials
Get everything in one place. Once you start mixing resins and applying them to the surfboard you can’t walk away to go find something you might have forgotten. You need everything within easy reach. If you need to use fiberglass cloth for your repair, cut it before you begin. What are you going to use to clean your tools and yourself? Have it ready and not behind a door knob.

Ask for help.
If you know someone who has repaired a surfboard, ask for their help and assistance. Try to watch someone make a repair and drink in everything you see. There’s a lot more going on than you would think.

Now, go fix it!
Repairing your surfboard is part science and part art. The more you work with and understand the process, the more comfortable you will become and the better your results will be. Start slow and be patient.

Finding Professional Surfboard Repair

Weight and balance are critical components of surfboard repair. Professionals in the surfboard repair industry know how to keep the weight down, the strength up and still make it look good. Yes, there are dedicated professionals who repair surfboards. These people have perfected the art and science of surfboard repair.

High value collectable surfboards should always be shipped to a repair artist. These professionals understand both the science and the art of surfboard repair. They can make your surfboard look brand new. These people stand out in their field and are sought after for restorations and challenging projects. Their prices are generally very reasonable, but the shipping can be expensive. The Board Lady, located in California, can make miracles happen to damaged boards. She specializes is epoxy reconstruction and repair of surfboards, wind surfers and any project where the final result is museum quality.

Your local surf shop probably has an employee who does surfboard repairs. Surf shop repairs are usually very good to excellent. The turnaround is usually very fast, unless a big swell has sent in a lot of boards. They do good work and they’re convenient. For most people, this is your best option for finding someone to repair your surfboard for you. You’re at the beach anyway, why not just drop it off?

Friends are another great resource. Having an extra set of hands available and the eyes of experience will always help when you have questions about surfboard repairs.

It happens to everyone and to some, it happens way more often than others. Here are a few of the absolute basics you need to know and also some very advanced techniques for those in the know.

Fast forward to 2009. I walked into the surf shop the other day and, as usual, I check to see if there are any new boards in the rack. And there it was, a beautiful bamboo surfboard made by Firewire. The soft amber glow of the bamboo had hypnotized me and I drifted closer.

Firewire's Rapidfire Bamboo Surfboard $595 @ Hostel Board Co.

Remembering my last experience with the bamboo surfboards, I approached cautiously. The craftsmanship was impeccable. There were no errant lines on the laminate and the lines were clean. No air bubbles in the glass, that’s good. Nice sharp rails on the tail. I couldn’t see a single issue or problem with the board, but it was still in the rack and I was a little afraid to pick it up for fear that my hopes would be dashed or even worse, crushed by the weight.I could stomach the $700 dollars, but if it weighed 10lbs, that would be a deal breaker.

Cautiously, I pulled the board out of the rack and it was then, that I realized, the Firewire Rapidfire bamboo surfboard was way different. It wasn’t heavy at all, if anything, it was extremely light weight. I would guess, somewhere in the 4-5lb range, which is lighter than my standard 6’2″ JS Combat or my 6’2″ JS Paraletic. It’s even lighter than my 6’0″ Rusty Surftech and way lighter than my 6’4″ JS! With the weight issue resolved, my mind raced with a new line of questions and concerns.

My floors are made of bamboo and so are my cutting boards. Bamboo must be pretty damned strong, otherwise, they wouldn’t be making flooring out of it would they? But without a stringer and knowing how light weight the surfboard is, I was a little worried about the flex. How would the bamboo handle the flex and pressure put on it by high performance surfing? As it turns out, the bamboo isn’t the main feature in controlling the flex of the surfboard, but rather, carbon rods control the flex and the bamboo is a helper. That’s some good news and something I was glad to hear.

So, here I was, looking at a beautiful surfboard, without any flaws in craftsmanship, the weigh is perfect, the feel is perfect and everything I could see or feel seemed perfect. I was ready to drop my $700 to get my new bamboo surfboard.

Price $595- A Nice Surprise: So, I asked the guy at the shop, “What kind of fins does this board come with”? I was a little shocked to hear, “None”. Now, I don’t mind spending $700 for a good surfboard, but please, give me a set of fins, even if they’re not the best fins in the world, at that price, I need a set, you know, just in case. It’s about that time, that I noticed the little sticker on the board that informed me the board was $595 and not $700. For $105 I could buy an great set of fins, a new trackpad and a leash. The $595 pricetag on the Firewire Rapidfire surfboard sealed the deal for me.

Firewire Rapidfire Bamboo Construction

Tech Meets Tradition: I’ve long been a fan of innovative technology in surfboards, but also appreciated the asthetics of traditional wood surfboards. The Rapidfire’s bamboo, carbon fiber and epoxy construction is a pleasing blend of the latest cutting edge construction and the traditional wood that I find so appealing. Firewire has made a lot of advancements in the surfboard industry in the last few years and I think this is the culmination of the best Firewire has to offer at a price that’s reasonable and actually, a damned good deal.

No More Balsa Rails: The balsa rails are not on the Rapidfire, which I feel is a good thing. A dinged rail on the balsa railed Firewire surfboards are very hard to repair correctly and I’ve never liked the asthetics of the balsa rail, so losing the balsa rails is a big plus in my book. But the balsa rails on most Firewires does add flex control, but that’s why the Rapidfire has carbon rods – Goodbye balsa rails!

Where’s the Vent? It doesn’t take long to notice the difference between the Rapidfire and the other lines in Firewire’s surfboards, there’s no vent. EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) has a lot of air in it, just like PU. But unlike PU, most Firewire surfboards are made with 1lb EPD. This is not the case with the Rapidfire. The Rapidfire model is made with 2lb EPS. That means, the foam is more dense, which means, less air in the foam and means, there’s no need for a vent. This also means, the foam has more structural integrity than the other Firewire surfboards – twice as much! This should lead to less pressure dings and less of a chance for delamination and that’s a good thing!

Where the Rubber Meets the Road: Bamboo, parabolic carbon fiber rods, 2lbs EPS, epoxy resins… sure, they sound good on paper, but I don’t surf on paper, what about the real issues – performance. Thankfully, the wave gods have smiled upon me and our usually flat May has had 9 straight days of surf for me to test my new Rapidfire bamboo surfboard. After 6 days of surf, I can say, without reservation, that I love my new Rapidfire surfboard. It’s really light weight, which I love. On the smaller days, I’ve used the Futures VII FEA fins and had excellent results. On the larger day and on the falling tides, I’ve used the Future FJC1 fins and loved it. EPS has more bouyancy that PU so getting into the waves is easy. The rocker helps keep me in the pocket and allows for some really tight turns, but also keeps speed on the flat. I don’t think this would be a good board for those small thigh to waist high days, but June is around the corner and I’ll have plenty of time to test it in the small stuff too. But, the tide is starting to come back in and I think I’m going to grab an afternoon session and with all the boards at my disposal, I’m grabbing my Rapidfire.

Anyone want to by a used 6’2″ JS Combat?

You can find Firewire RapidFire Surfboards with Free Shipping at Hostel Board Company

Enjoy your time in the water.

Beginning Surfers Surfboard Size Chart

With these beginner recommended sizes, you will maximize time actually being able to surf. You won’t have a board that’s so long you can’t paddle it, nor will you have a board too short to give you proper floatation. You should be able to make the best of your time in the water if you’re a beginning surfer and follow these guidelines. You will want to stick with funshapes and longboard type surfboards with a wide nose and tail. You may be tempted to go shorter or get a real shortboard, but unless you have a very high drive to succeed, you’ll get frustrated as a beginner and end up quitting surfing.

Intermediate Surfers Surfboard Size Chart

OK, you have some skill and now, you can switch to a shorter board. Of course, you can always go longer, but this chart is geared toward the intermediate surfer who’s goal is to ride shortboards. You’ll be needing less floatation, because as an intermediate surfer, your paddling ability should be up to par with nearly anyone. These boards will allow you maximum maneuverability and still be fun in small weak waves. The extra length will allow you to get into the wave sooner and really get a feeling for shortboard surfing.

Advanced Surfs Board Guide

If you’re an advanced surfer, you can ride anything you want. The sky is the limit when it comes to surfboards. You’re probably riding a board shorter than you, potato chip thin and so narrow, it really could be an ironing board. Advanced surfers can generally ride any surfboard there is and some can surf anything. Check out the video below from “Fair Bits”of Kelly Slater and Rob Machado riding a coffee table, a snow sled and things you would never think of trying to surf!